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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.